It has been nearly a decade since my last visit to the island of Terengganu, and as I encountered another purported hidden gem in the Southeast Johor region, I found myself filled with skepticism. My initial intention was to secure a booking with Alunan Resort for a trip in August; however, upon realizing that it coincided with peak season, I began to reconsider the merit of such an undertaking. As a result, I decided to temper my enthusiasm and defer the trip to the following month, September.
We took an evening direct flight from KLIA2 to Pengkalan Chepa Airport, and we felt at ease to see many tour and transport companies at the arrival hall offering convenient transfer services to Besut Jetty. Pengkalan Chepa Airport looks brand new and inviting, having just completed an impressive renovation.
On the following day, we gladly chartered a car from the Kota Bharu city area, and our peaceful ride to the Besut Jetty was a charming 1 hour and 30 minutes. It was a lovely Sunday morning, and we arrived an hour ahead of schedule, presenting us with the wonderful opportunity to explore delightful local eateries near the jetty.
After dropping our luggage at Alunan office, we joyfully came across Adam Café at the jetty entrance and eagerly ordered their kaya toast and delectable tuna sandwich, perfectly paired with the local Kopi-C. Their ‘kaya’, a delightful blend of egg and coconut jam, was sweetly balanced, while the tuna sandwich was tantalizingly savoury! Their local Kopi-C was truly remarkable, with aromatic richness and a smooth finish that surpassed anything we’ve tried in the town area. Discovering this hidden gem was a joy, and we can’t wait to return!
We eagerly boarded the first complimentary boat transfer at 11 am, gathering with our fellow travelers at the Alunan office 20 minutes before departure. Our boat captain demonstrated considerable expertise; the sensation of the wind in our hair and the spray of the sea was captivating as our high-speed vessel navigated the open waters.
Note: It’s essential to have some spare cash ready, as paying the Besut Local Council (MDB) Terminal and Marine Park conservation fees is mandatory before stepping onto Alunan Resort’s boat.
Upon our arrival, we received instructions to convene for a brief orientation regarding Alunan Resort’s facilities, as well as in-house and water sports activities. Only during the check-in process were we assigned individualized wristbands corresponding to the service level selected at the time of our booking. We opted for an all-inclusive package that effectively encompassed our accommodation, all daily meals, beverages, and return boat transfers from the Kuala Besut Jetty. Additionally, we coordinated our schedules for water sports activities during check-in for our upcoming three-day stay with the resort.
The staff was somewhat courteous in assisting us with our luggage to the villa, but as soon as we accessed the room, we found ourselves in a predicament with the key hopelessly stuck in the doorknob, forcing us to call reception for help; this unfortunate event certainly put a damper on our holiday experience. Given our early arrival, we were told to have lunch before settling into our accommodations, which seemed like a convenient distraction. Their à la carte menu, while featuring made-to-order dishes in large portions, was largely uninspiring and often uncomfortably oily. The only dish we could genuinely appreciate was the keropok lekor. On another note, their fruit juice was so diluted it tasted more like iced water than anything refreshing. I was left puzzled when our satay arrived in plastic ware, which seems counterproductive for a resort touting an eco-friendly image.
After our luncheon session, we attired ourselves in appropriate swimming gear in preparation for the ‘Explore Perhentian’ snorkelling expedition. This experience proved to be exceptional as we visited the most renowned locations to observe a diverse array of marine life—graceful juvenile sharks traversing the waters, vibrant coral reefs bustling with activity, and the impressive sight of majestic sea turtles. We exercised great care to appreciate each moment, fully immersing ourselves in the breathtaking beauty and complexity of this underwater ecosystem.
Following an early awakening on our initial day, we opted to retire early; however, our sleep proved far from restorative throughout our stay, largely due to the firm and elevated structure of their pillows, which resulted in considerable neck discomfort. While we eagerly anticipated the lavish breakfast of the following day, we encountered significant disappointment that compelled us to forego it in favor of lunch, which offered a broader selection.
We participated in several water activities that were enjoyable and thrilling; however, the ‘Best of Perhentian Yacht Adventure’ turned out to be a distressing experience. As an individual with a heightened sensitivity to loud noises, the background music played by the boat attendant during the yacht cruise was excessively loud and disruptive. My travel companion courteously requested the yacht captain to lower the volume, and while he initially complied, he soon returned to his previous behavior. I found his actions to be remarkably disrespectful and inconsiderate. The noise almost pushed me to the brink of a mental breakdown, marking this as a profoundly traumatic experience for me.
In contrast, the ‘Glass Bottom Boat Ride’ was truly a breathtaking highlight of our island journey. Richal and Fauzah guided us to enchanted, hidden spots overflowing with a dazzling array of coral species, offering an eye-opening adventure that we’ll never forget. Fauzah, a qualified marine biologist, radiated enthusiasm as she shared her wealth of knowledge about each coral species and their unique traits, and Alunan’s conservation activities with corporate sponsors. Our wonderful boat captain, Richal, went above and beyond by making a special stop at Kampung Nelayan (lit. Fishermen’s village), where we marveled at the vibrant, colorful ‘Perahu Nelayan’ (lit. Fishermen’s boats). From the glass bottom of our boat, we were captivated by the stunning sight of colorful and lush green corals beneath the waves, making this experience truly unforgettable!
On our final evening, we reluctantly opted for a simple dinner before wrapping up, as we were completely exhausted from an action-packed day of water activities and wanted to catch the earliest complimentary boat transfer back to the shore. We also chose to forgo our last breakfast at Alunan Resort, opting instead for what we hoped would be a better breakfast at venues along the shore. To sum it up, I can’t help but feel our resort experience here was quite underwhelming and hardly worth the money spent.
When we reached the shore, our instincts guided us as we stumbled upon Kedai Kopi Bucu, the quintessential ‘Best Terengganu’s local coffee house or Kopitiam’ experience is here. We ordered nasi dagang, freshly made fragrant steamed coconut rice accompanied by savory and sweet ikan tongkol, or tuna fish. In addition, they take pride in utilizing Lavazza coffee beans, resulting in an aromatic cappuccino characterized by a mild nutty note and a light, smooth finish.
With some time to spare, we eagerly set out to explore a charming roadside gem called ‘Warong Sata.’ As we arrived, the delightful Mek (which means ‘madam’) was just about to unveil her culinary masterpiece. Her ‘Sata’, lovingly wrapped in banana leaves, was slow-grilled over coconut shells, infusing it with a fresh leafy-green essence and a smoky aroma from the coconut husks. We couldn’t resist starting with a single stick of sata, containing four pieces of delicious sata, and it was nothing short of delightful, prompting us to seize ten more sticks to take home!
Note: Generally, a truly exceptional sata boasts a complex smoked profile, with fragrant, spicy notes and a gentle sweetness from coconut and the freshest fish, and is best eaten hot straight off the charcoal grill.
